Mosel Moments
By
Leigh Morris
Riesling
reins supreme here, but you don’t have to be a wine connoisseur to enjoy this
beautiful, often over looked area of Germany.
The great loops of the Mosel River gently meander past steep, vine-clad
hills and picturesque, medieval towns along its banks.
This is where the Germans come for a wine holiday, for good reason.
Explore the quaint villages, castles and ruins of the middle Mosel where the
grape is king and you should definitely pay homage.
What to See
Bernkastel-Kues
clings to a narrow strip of land and possesses a wealth of half-timbered houses
and Renaissance monuments. It is
often crammed with day-trippers, so plan accordingly.
Across the river in Kues (the town occupies both sides) the Saint
Nikolaus Hospital with its famous library of medieval books and the Middle Mosel
Weinmuseum are well worth a visit.
Punderich,
due west of Zell, is a pretty town with a wonderful cluster of 16th
and 17th century houses. The Marienburg castle offers some fabulous
views of the river, which flows past on both sides.
They have one of the regions most attractive Strassenfests here in late
September.
Beilstein
is a tiny village with meandering cobblestone streets and geranium-stuffed
window boxes. Climb the winding steps to the pretty church above the village or
visit the ruined castle of the Von Metternich family, which stands guard over
this little gem. The back roads through the forest around Beilstein are lovely.
Ediger,
due west of Beilstein, is a charming enclave of half-timbered houses, impossibly
narrow side streets, and the ancient remains of 14th century walls
and towers that once encircled the village.
Stop at the Springiersbacher Hof and the charming Frau Borchert, who
speaks English, will invite you to her cellar for a wine tasting.
Ask for directions to her favorite restaurant, the
Winzerschänke, for some
wonderful local fare. Follow the
back streets to Cochem and pull over at one of the many switchbacks for an
impromptu picnic and some stunning views of Ediger and the river.
Time your lunch for noon, and you will be serenaded by the church bells
below.
Ernst,
north of Ediger, boasts a fine Romanesque church.
The dark stone and straight lines of its twin towers contrasts with the
more common white washed, Gothic churches of the region.
There is a nicer than average Imbiss stand here where you can sit and
watch the barges float by as you munch on a brat and fries (pommes). You can even grab—blasphemy—a decent beer here.
Five
minutes away, well off the tourist trail, is the wine village of
Graach.
Pretty stone carvings of the Stations of the Cross dot the road climbing
up into the vineyards. The small
estate of Willi Schaefer, located right on the main street, offers tasting by
appointment only. Also on the main
street, or Hauptstrasse, is the Restaurant zur Traube, offering traditional fare
in an old house.
Burg
Eltz, northeast of Cochem, has
been called the most beautiful castle in Germany. It was the only important castle in the area not to be
destroyed by the many conflicts of the 17th and 18th
centuries. Invest in an English guidebook as English tours are offered only to
larger groups. Here’s a hint:
don’t follow the signs from the main road to the castle.
It’s an arduous 40-minute walk from the car park.
Drive on to Muenstermaifeld and then look for the signs with a little bus
symbol showing the way to the castle. From
this car park you can catch a shuttle for 2DM—well worth the coins.
The castle’s imposing situation above the little rivers and forest
below is magical.
The Wine
The
Middle Mosel produces some of the highest quality Rieslings in all of Germany.
The variations are endless, so plan for lots of tastings to find the ones
that appeal to you.
In Bernkastel, stop in at the Lauerburg shop right on the Marktplatz or
at the Dr Pauly-Bergweiler villa near the Art Nouveau town hall for a selection
of Bernkastel’s best.
Willi Schaefer’s, in Graach, offers Rieslings of crystalline clarity—say
that three times fast after a few tastings!
If you like a dry Riesling, Clemens Busch in Punderich makes some of the
area’s finest.
Tastings here are by appointment only.
In Ediger, try the ’Wine from the Springiersbacher
Hof.
You can also pick up some schnapps and cassis liqueur here, all family
produced of course.
The Bad News
Riverside
campsites dot the entire region, complete with tent cities and satellite dishes.
You might want to check the nearest location of these before booking
accommodations. Cochem is crammed
full of buses, tourists and kitsch. But
it does have a beautiful castle, and this is the place to catch a boat cruise.
Stop at the ticket counter here for timetables.
Rooms might be hard to come by during the many harvest and wine festivals
in both September and October, so plan ahead, or take your chances.
Don’t take any chances during
the ‘Rhein in Flamen’ (Rhein in Flames) weekends.
The fireworks over the Rhein may be spectacular, but your nearest vacancy
could be the Frankfurt airport (don’t ask me how I know…). There are no good, large wine stores here so you must drive
around to the individual estates, but that’s half the fun.
Speaking of driving, distances along the Mosel are incredibly deceiving.
It takes a long time to get from one place to the next. Try some of the back roads to circumvent the slower speed
limits and tourist traffic. The
area is also known for its high rainfall in the spring and fall, so plan on some
gray days.
The
generous hospitality of its vintners, the charm of its villages and the lazy
rhythm of its gentle waters make this valley a wonderful and relaxing travel
destination.
The best part is you can bring a taste of the Mosel home with you in a
slender green bottle—hail to the king!
|
